Friday, May 23, 2008


Last night we did our second "night tour of the churches of Firenze" Two nights ago as we were walking across our piazza and we noticed the doors were open to Santa Croce. Since Jonathan still hasn't been in it we thought we would find out what was going on. We were directed to the side doors. We were promptly led into the church and joined a little tour group that was being conducted in English. A wonderful, kind older Italian man was our guide. What luck to get a detailed tour of the church was see ten times a day. We picked up a brochure they had there and realized there were going to be tours of churches for the rest of the week. Last night was the church Ognissanti, most famous for the fact that Amerigo Vespucci was a member. Again, we had a wonderful, spunky guide. This time an older woman of about 75-80. She was so excited about everything as she told the stories of the artwork that filled the church. Sometimes, she would look at a painting and say "There are just too many paintings, I don't know anything about this one!" We also met an American lady on our tour who has been living in Firenze for six months a year since 1961. After the tour she invited us to go to a small village of Fiosole (I think that is the name of it.) in the hills overlooking Firenze. We are going to have the famous Florintine beef steak. She is going to drive us there. Can't wait! We arranged to meet her next Tuesday at 12:30 at the Europa Garage Parking.

Then to make a very interesting evening more interesting we ran into a HUGE religious procession coming out of the il Duomo. We have no idea what it was all about. It seemed that all the important religious people were there as long as just members of the congregation. It took
half an hour for everyone to pass. We then got a beer at a club near my school and met a nice American proffessor. All in all, a lovely evening and one that is making us like our new town more and more.

Here is a little information about the church we visited:

The Church of Ognissanti, on the North bank of the Arno just to the West of the city centre, dates from 1249, and owes its origins to a group of Umiliati monks from Lombardy (North Italy) who set up Florence's first wool mills there, powered by water diverted from the Arno by a weir. Wool was to become the powerhouse of the first phase of Florence'c wealth.

Ognissanti became the parish church of several wealthy merchant families, including the Vespucci, one of whose members (Amerigo) gave his name to the Americas. Sandro Botecelli(1444 - 1510) and Domenico Ghirlandaio (1449 - 1494) were also members of the congregation, and the latter left behind one of his best "Last Suppers" in the convent (equals monastery) refectory.

In 1561 the Umiliati, now on the verge of suppression (this happened in 1571), vacated the premises and were replaced by Franciscan Spiritual Minors. The church was reconstructed in 1582, and again in 1748. During the eighteen hundreds there were two suppressions (1810 and 1866) and by 1923 the place was in use as a store and Carabinieri base (which it still partly is). More recently the Franciscans (who had regained possession earlier in the nineteen hundreds) handed over to the Benedictines for the next watch!

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